Federico’s Maso Cantanghel: Young Winemaker’s Answer to Burgundy in Trentino

Just east of the town of Trento, Italy, lays the small village of Civezzano. Within this small valley between high mountains is Federico Simoni’s Pinot Nero and Sauvignon Blanc vineyard, Maso Cantanghel. The small 2 ha Clos (a vineyard contained within a wall) is Federico’s answer to Burgundy. ‘Maso’ is smaller that the Italian ‘fattoria’, a very small farm under 10 ha. ‘Cantanghel’ is a very old name, ‘anghel’ in their dialect means corner, as the vineyard shapes a corner on top of the hill.

Federico and his father Lorenzo purchased Maso Cantanghel in 2006, though the vineyard has been producing since 1984. Federico felt this was the perfect site to produce elegant Pinot Nero for many reasons – elevation, soil, and climate. Strong winds from the southern Lake Garda flow up the valley allowing Federico to farm organically easily. His Pinot grapes have very fine skins and the constant wind helps keep moisture away, thus reducing the threat of botrytis and disease. 2008 was their first organic vintage. Federico does not use fertilizers or herbicides, only sulfur and copper when necessary.

The most distinguishing object while standing in the vineyard is the dominant Dolomite Mountains. As massive glaciers pushed through the mountains creating the valleys we stand on, they exposed white dolomite stone with some volcanic origin. Federico insists this is very important, as the pH of the soil is higher than 7, thus the pH of his wine is lower creating a more acidic and mineral flavor profile. High quality sparkling wine production in Trento is situated on this soil, as top brands Ferrari and Rotari are only a few hills away.

Federico’s Pinot vines average 20 years old, though they appear younger. This is due again to the soil, as the mother rock is only 1 meter below the surface. The vines cannot dig down deep thus stunting their root system and growth. The vineyards are setup for irrigation for the same reason – the vines cannot dig deep enough to access underground water. Federico has started to implement spur reduction at flowering, keeping only the best 7-8 spurs on the cane and removing the rest. All of the vineyard work is completed manually.